Growing Shrubs & Trees at Home

An advantage of using plants grown in containers is that none of the root system is lost in the process of transplanting. This minimizes transplant shock if adequate follow-up care is provided. Also, smaller stock is less affected by transplant shock. The following recommendations will help ensure a good start for your trees and shrubs.

When received: Plant as soon as possible. If you cannot plant immediately, protect the plants from wind, sun, and freezing, and water them regularly.

When to plant: It is generally recommended to plant in spring or fall when growing conditions are less stressful.

Where to plant: It is important to select a plant that is adapted to existing conditions at the planting site. Soil conditions can be improved, but it takes time. Test the soil for pH and mineral content. Local University Extension offices provide soil testing at a reasonable cost.

You can check soil drainage in the planting area by digging an 18" hole and filling it with water. Immediately after the water drains, fill the hole again. If the second filling takes more than 24 hours to drain, you'll need to improve the drainage by creating raised beds or installing drain tiles.

Allow sufficient space around and above your tree or shrub to accommodate its size at maturity. Also consider the sunlight needs of the variety you are planting. You may need to prune or remove surrounding plants to provide adequate light and space for your new tree or shrub.

How to plant: Dig the planting hole to the depth of the root mass and 3 times its width, with gently sloping sides, like a saucer. It is very important not to plant too deeply: be sure the topmost roots are just at soil level.

Loosen and tease out the roots if they have begun to circle inside the pot; otherwise they will continue to grow in a circle and can ultimately kill the plant.

The current wisdom is to backfill with the original soil rather than with heavily-amended soil, which may discourage outward root growth.

To minimize water runoff, mound the backfilled soil to form a 4-6" high "dam" around the perimeter of the planting hole. This will allow water to collect and soak slowly into the soil. Settle the soil by watering thoroughly.

Watering: Water regularly for at least the first year.

Mulching: No volcanoes! Mulching with wood chips is extremely beneficial because it helps to retain moisture and even out soil temperatures, but — no volcanoes please! Mulch that is piled up around the trunk or woody stems causes the bark to decay and is an invitation to pests and disease! Instead, spread 3–4 inches of mulch fairly evenly out to the drip line, but pull it back from around the trunk.